talk about fans for a boat? Well, if you only use your boat for day trips, you
can probably skip this section altogether. However, if you do overnight, keep
your boat at a dock or camp-cruise, a fan or fans might just be the key to a
successful outing and a good night’s rest.
Here’s a surprise for you; fiberglass boats have wood in
them. Older boats, like our project boat, Daydream, have a lot of wood in them.
While the hull, deck and other parts may be fiberglass, the interior is often
created from plywood and lumber.
This project came about with the realization that my 35-foot Columbia didn’t have any automatic bilge pumps. Not one. Given that the project will have to start from scratch, I researched possible solutions and some of the problems they offered.
Project creep is when you start out to build a Mini-Cooper and end up with a bus. It’s endemic in a boat restoration project and Daydream is no exception. If you remember back to the first Project Daydream article, my daughter and I were going to restore Daydream on a budget and to a timeframe. We’ve resisted project creep as best we could, but it’s time for me to admit a certain amount of defeat on that subject.
The headliners in many older boats are on their last legs, dirty, off-white and sagging in places and are a prime candidate for replacement. I decided to replace mine with one with removable access panels. A prime advantage is that it allowed me access to the fasteners holding on the deck-mounted equipment.
How secure are you moving about below in rough weather? Can you safely negotiate from the companionway to the vee-berth when things are bouncing? Our Columbia 10.7 has a typical layout for an older 35-footer. A galley to port and nav station to starboard, both next to the companionway. The galley and the nav station both butted up against a partial bulkhead that was also the aft end of each settee. There were handholds at the upper corners of the companionway, very useful when coming down the companionway ladder. However, once you reached the cabin sole, it was a long stretch to reach the overhead handrails over the settees, especially for a shorter person.
To my mind, there is nothing that looks as good below as a finely finished teak and holly sole. Unfortunately, not all boats come with one. In the case of a 34-footer I’m helping restore, the cabin sole was molded nonskid fiberglass. After years of use the non-skid was chipped, dirty and hard to keep clean.
Recently, a member of one of the forums I’m on asked if anyone had any experience installing a mirror aboard their boat. I answered in the affirmative and said I would check for any pictures and post them, hence this post.
One of the first projects I ever wrote about was about a mount for a standard orange flare canister. That mount was made from several pieces of teak or mahogany and involved some cutting, filing and epoxying. It also required varnishing.
I decided to design a new mount while in the process of refitting our boat. This time I used polymer lumber, as produced by King Starboard (R) or Taco. Polymer lumber is great since it can be worked with common woodworking tools, doesn’t absorb water and doesn’t require finishing (or refinishing).
A wise option for boats going offshore is
to have the access hatches in the cabin sole securely latched in place. Should
the cabin sole flood or a knockdown displace the hatches, moving about the
cabin becomes dangerous. I remember reading one story about a sailor who struck
something, probably a container, at sea. He ended up losing the boat, in part
due to the difficulty of maneuvering around the open hatches in the cabin sole.
In this article, I’ll discuss the process I went through to solve this problem
on my 35-footer.