Capt'n Pauley's Virtual Boat Yard -- Projects Galore!!!

BoatTEST.com and The Virtual Boatyard Link Up!

BoatTEST.com (www.boatTEST.com) is the premier site for test reports on powerboats of all types. Their web site provides test and video reports and evaluations of literally hundreds of powerboats, ranging from PWCs up to mega-yachts. If you are thinking of buying a boat, they more likely than not have an online review of it, often including video.

Attacking the Mold Demons

Cockpit Grate: A Reader's Project

Latches: Keeping Things Closed

Installing Insulation in Your Boat

Pettit’s Plan Puts Money Back In Boater’s Pockets

Impeller Wisdom

Ever stop to think how dependent your boat is on a little rubber impeller? Or how many of them you have aboard? Depending on the size of your boat, it could be from one to as many as seven or more. They reside in your outdrive, electric head, pressure water system, washdown pump and oil change system, for example. Failure of any of them could result in consequences that range from a smelly mess to a possible sinking or expensive damage to your engine and drive train.

Building a Trailer Stand

Those of us that trailer our boats usually store them outside. Beside the garage, in the backyard or at the boatyard, they are often out in the weather. Hopefully, they will be covered and the covers won’t leak. However, often those covers do leak, allowing water into the boat.

New Chainplates for Old

The result of salt water leaking behind the aluminum chainplate.

The lost Art of Fender Boards

Just about every boat out on the water has an assortment of fenders aboard. Round ones, tall ones, hung vertically or hung horizontally. In most situations, they do okay. However, some situations call for a little more protection. These cases call for something called a fender board.

The latest news from Purgatory Cove, Letter #2

Purgatory Cove Fish Dock and Marina

Sam, Lefty and Wade Proprietors

We got no shirts, no shoes and no service!

Well, it’s been a slow week here at Purgatory Cove. Mostly because we found out which gas storage tank Wade put the water in. Sure enough, we filled up the pickup and it hasn’t run since. Once we sell enough gas outa that tank to customers we’ll be back to good gas and we’ll be riding again instead of walking.

Seacock Troubles

One of the comments I often hear at the boatyard is, “This seacock is too expensive, I can get the same thing at (a favorite home improvement store) much cheaper.” Well, yes, you can find something there that looks a lot like a seacock, or more correctly a ball valve, but it isn’t the same.

How-To: Flare Canister Mount

One of the first projects I ever wrote about was about a mount for a standard orange flare canister. That mount was made from several pieces of teak or mahogany and involved some cutting, filing and epoxying. It also required varnishing.

I decided to design a new mount while in the process of refitting our boat. This time I used polymer lumber, as produced by King Starboard (R) or Taco. Polymer lumber is great since it can be worked with common woodworking tools, doesn’t absorb water and doesn’t require finishing (or refinishing).

Water Separator Filters for Outboards

I recently received this email from a reader:

I have a 6 HP Tohatsu outboard. I have been looking for an in-line water separator for some time. All I could find were for larger engines. I would be even happier if I could find one for a funnel as I store gas in regular cans also and then could just put it through the filter when filling the boat. Does anyone know of a simple water filter?

Installing Flexible Tanks

Introduction:
Call them flexible tanks or bladder tanks; they may well be the answer to your water storage problem. These tanks can be easily retrofitted to almost any boat. A few possible reasons for doing so are to:

• Replace leaking metal or plastic tanks
• Replace integral (built-in tanks)
• Add additional water capacity
• Provide ballast that can also be used for drinking

These tanks are available in many different sizes and several different configurations. In this article, I’ll cover the general design of the tanks, proper location, correct installation techniques and some first hand experiences.

Time for a little HUMOR!

The latest news from Purgatory Cove

Purgatory Cove Fish Dock & Marina

Sam, Lefty and Wade: Proprietors

“Where your friends aren’t”

Had a visitor come by last week. Saw his beard and thought he might be one of those hippies or such. As soon as he go out of his vehicle and asked for a cold longneck, we knew he was a good ol’ boy like us.

Turns out he’s from one of those boat magazines up north. Every now and then he gets in his car and goes exploring. He was off this time looking for interesting places to write about. Then he stopped by here.

After we all partook of a few longnecks, he mentioned that his readers might like to hear about Purgatory Cove. Mentioned something about it being “how the other half lives” or something. Sam wasn’t really much for the idea, didn’t want the place overrun with high falutin’ folks wanting all kinds of services and botherin’ him and the rest of the help.

Securing Your Cabin Sole

 A wise option for boats going offshore is to have the access hatches in the cabin sole securely latched in place. Should the cabin sole flood or a knockdown displace the hatches, moving about the cabin becomes dangerous. I remember reading one story about a sailor who struck something, probably a container, at sea. He ended up losing the boat, in part due to the difficulty of maneuvering around the open hatches in the cabin sole. In this article, I’ll discuss the process I went through to solve this problem on my 35-footer.

Yes Virginia, there is a difference!

When it came time for me to replace the old seacocks on one of my project boats, I thought I’d do it up right, replacing the thru-hulls as well as the seacocks. Based on my experience with another, older, boat, I was prepared to have to cut the thru-hulls out. I didn’t think I would have any problems getting new, bronze, thru-hull like the ones currently installed on the boat. After all, they haven’t changed the thread sizes lately have they? ¾”, 1”, 1-1/4” and 1-1/2” pipe threads are still the standards.

Keep the Wiring Dry with a Drip Loop

            Water, especially salt water, and electrical components don’t mix. Corrosion at the terminals can lead to increased electrical resistance. That resistance means higher voltage drop and the possibility of localized heating at the terminal. A worst case scenario is an electrical fire from the resulting heat.

            One method of keeping water away from electrical connections is called a “drip loop”. The wires going to a bus bar or terminal block are lead below the item being connected to and then back up to form a loop. The theory is that the water will run down the loop and drip off at the bottom of the loop. The drawing explains it all.

Capt'n Pauley

Fixing Discolored Plexiglas

Just got this in from a reader:

Hello Paul, I have a 29 foot Tylercraft sailboat.  There is a hatch in the forward cabin with a plexiglass top which is now discolored to a yellow orange color.  Can anything be done to bring this back to a more clear look? Thanks,

Roy

I've  had good luck in buffing out discolored Plexiglas with Flitz Metal Polish. I used the paste type polish and an electric buffer. Be careful not to overheat and "burn" the Plexiglass. You can fins it at most marine stores like West.

Capt'n Pauley

www.flitz.com

How To: Out with the Bad, In with the Good (Water that is)

Most of us running our inboard/outboards (I/Os) and inboards in salt or brackish water understand the potential harm that water can afflict on our expensive machinery. Corroded and leaking manifolds and risers, blocked cooling passages and overheating engines, to name just a few of the hazards.

One partial solution is a fresh water cooling system, where outside water is used to cool the engine antifreeze in a heat exchanger. This will help eliminate the ill effects in the engine block, but the raw water side of the cooling system is still vulnerable to salt and corrosion.

Another, better, option is to install a fresh water flushing system in your boat. Such a system allows the engine to be flushed with fresh water after you have returned to your slip. Most of these units have to be added after purchase of the boat and vary widely in concept and execution of the product.

Welcome!

Welcome to Capt’n Pauley’s Place!

    Before we get started, how about some introductions? I’m Paul Esterle, a boating writer, book author and editor. I am currently Technical Editor of Small Craft Advisor magazine and Managing Editor of Nor’easter magazine. I’ve finished one book, “Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades” and have a second, “Maintaining and Improving Your Powerboat” due out in July of 2009.